Harbin, Heilongjiang Province, China

Nestled in the northeastern part of China, Harbin is the capital of Heilongjiang Province. Known as the “Ice City,” Harbin is famed for its bitterly cold winters and magnificent ice and snow sculptures. With a population of over 10 million, it stands as a vibrant metropolis blending modernity with history.

GFX100S II 32mm ISO-80 1/2700sec f/4
GFX100S II 36.9mm ISO-80 1/250sec f/11

I’m late in sharing these images as I went to Harbin for the Chinese New Year in late January 2025. To say it was bitterly cold would be an understatement. It was -30°C during the night and not much warmer during the day! I had to wear Uniqlo Heattech long-johns, a Columbia Omni-Heat undershirt and gloves just to survive!

City of Ice

Since I don’t think many of my readers would have heard of Harbin, I’ll spend a bit more time on the city’s history and why it’s such a unique place to visit. Harbin is a melting pot of cultures, with a significant Russian influence due to its historical ties. This is reflected in the city’s cuisine, architecture, and festivals. The Saint Sophia Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox Church, stands as a testament to this cultural blend.   

GFX100S II 80mm ISO-80 1/4000sec f/1.7
GFX100S II 55mm ISO-80 1/4000sec f/1.7

Harbin’s history dates to the 19th century when it was a small fishing village on the Songhua River. Its transformation began with the construction of the Chinese Eastern Railway in 1898, which attracted Russian immigrants and boosted the local economy. The Russian influence is still evident in Harbin’s architecture, with many buildings reflecting Russian styles.

GFX100S II 35.6mm ISO-160 1/58sec f/11

Climate

Harbin experiences a humid continental climate with long, harsh winters and short, warm summers. The city is famous for its Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival, which is one of the main reasons I went to Harbin, where visitors can marvel at colossal ice sculptures illuminated with colorful lights. The Songhua River, which flows through Harbin, freezes over in winter, providing a unique backdrop for the festivities.

GFX100S II 55mm ISO-125 1/42sec f/8
GFX100S II 50mm ISO-1000 1/40sec f/3.5

I can’t highlight enough how cold it was when I visited. I lived in Toronto, Canada for more than 10 years and I thought I’d experienced cold weather, but the combination of the low temperatures and wicked wind ripped right through to my bones. The GFX100S II did surprisingly well in these conditions with only the LCD and EVF refresh rate slowing down. My partner’s Sony A7R5 was a mess in comparison with a very laggy screen and much reduced battery life. 

Economy

Harbin is an important economic center in northeastern China, with industries spanning manufacturing, textiles and pharmaceuticals. It’s also a key player in China’s energy sector, with numerous power plants and coal mines in the region. The city’s strategic location makes it a crucial gateway for trade with Russia and other neighboring countries.

GFX100S II 55mm ISO-160 1/45sec f/1.7

Food

Think “Chinese Texas” and you’ll be close to what the food is like in Harbin. Food is big in this city, both in importance and size. Food is very hardy with lots of meat, potatoes, Harbin Beer and raucous discussion at the dinner table. Food is eaten early so that you can get home before the temperature gets too cold. Locals speak with vigor to the extent it sounds like arguing, but the bursts of laughter provide reassurance that plates are not about to be broken.

One of my favourite meals was where they served the food from inside burners in the table. There was chicken and potatoes and pork and potatoes; the ingredients were thrown into the in-table burners and cooked while we enjoyed some beer. The smell and taste were exceptional and a wonderful experience. In all the cities I’ve visited in China, I haven’t experienced this style of cooking and food outside of Harbin. It’s definitely a must try if you visit the city.    

Tourism

Harbin offers a plethora of attractions for visitors. Apart from the ice sculptures, the Harbin Polarland and the Siberian Tiger Park provide unique wildlife experiences. The Sun Island Scenic Area is a popular spot for summer picnics and winter ice activities. Additionally, the Harbin Grand Theatre is a modern architectural marvel hosting various cultural performances.

GFX100S II 40.3mm ISO-80 1/320sec f/8
GFX100S II 32mm ISO-80 1/200sec f/11
GFX100S II 32mm ISO-80 1/200sec f/11
GFX100S II 64mm ISO-80 1/280sec f/11
GFX100S II 64mm ISO-80 1/220sec f/11
GFX100S II 45.7mm ISO-160 1/950sec f/11

The Harbin Grand Theatre deserves a post of its own. It’s a stunning design by MAD Architects of China. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the opportunity to visit this time, but I hope to visit in the warmer summer months and share images with you. For now, please visit MAD Architects’ website to see this marvel of architecture. 

Transportation

The city is well-connected by an extensive transport network. Harbin Taiping International Airport offers flights to major cities in China and international destinations. The Harbin Railway Station, a key hub on the Chinese Eastern Railway, provides convenient rail links. The city’s public transport system includes buses, trams and an expanding metro network. I would suggest using Didi (China’s much more advanced version of Uber) to get around. 

GFX100S II 55mm ISO-200 1/42sec f/1.7
GFX100S II 55mm ISO-160 1/125sec f/1.7
GFX100S II 55mm ISO-200 1/42sec f/4

Daxing Airport

A special mention has to be made about Daxing Airport in Beijing. I’ve posted images from this stunning airport before, but it’s come alive now that Covid is a long lost memory. While it’s a bit far from the city, it’s worthwhile to find a flight coming in and out of this city if you happen to visit Beijing. It’s much better than the Capital Airport and so much more efficient.

GFX100S II 32mm ISO-800 1/10sec f/8
GFX100S II 32mm ISO-800 1/15sec f/8

Conclusion

Harbin is a city of contrasts, where icy winters meet warm cultural exchanges, and historical architecture coexists with modern infrastructure. Its unique blend of Chinese and Russian influences, coupled with its economic significance, makes Harbin a captivating destination for tourists. Whether marveling at the ice sculptures or exploring its rich heritage, Harbin offers an unforgettable experience.

I hope to go back again in the spring or fall to experience the city without the biting cold! However, for a first-time visit, it has to be during the Ice Festival and that means coming well prepared for the cold, at least much better than I was! I hope you’ve enjoyed this short post about Harbin, China!

GFX100S II 80mm ISO-80 1/150sec f/4
GFX100S II 80mm ISO-160 1/110sec f/4
GFX100S II 80mm ISO-80 1/105sec f/4
GFX100S II 50mm ISO-800 1/15sec f/3.5
GFX100S II 50mm ISO-800 1/18sec f/3.5
GFX100S II 50mm ISO-800 1/17sec f/3.5
GFX100S II 50mm ISO-800 1/27sec f/3.5
GFX100S II 50mm ISO-1600 1/3000sec f/3.5
GFX100S II 32mm ISO-160 1/75sec f/8
GFX100S II 32mm ISO-160 1/120sec f/8


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